Up In Smoke is like many barbecue restaurants in Texas – serving meats from a carving station with sides served cafeteria style as you work your way down the line to the cash register.  You can choose between several meats including hot links, pulled pork, turkey, ribs, and brisket (of course) on a single or multiple meat plate.  Each dish also includes 2 sides and a slice of bread (why not Texas Toast?).  Another unusual menu item is the Texas Trash – Frito pie with a twist*.  Instead of traditional chili on top of Fritos, Up in Smoke serves Texas Trash as corn chips covered in brisket, beans, sour cream and cheese.

For today’s lunch I tried a barbecue hot link and some brisket with green beans and fried okra.  The brisket at Up in Smoke was of good quality and tender.  Unfortunately, the brisket was dry and somewhat overcooked.  Another element that was missing was the smoky flavor, smoke ring, and bark you would get from long slow preparation over a wood fire.  Perhaps the brisket was prepared in an oven – not quite up to the namesake of the restaurant.  The sausage was flavorful and well seasoned with a hint of spice without too much bite.  This was my favorite part of the meal.

Chris ate the Texas Trash.  Intriguing in it’s name, Chris could not pass up the opportunity to sample all of the different flavors and textures included in the dish – crunchy corn chips, savory brisket, creamy pinto beans, and smooth sour cream.  The combination, while unusual, was very delicious.  The counterpoint between crunchy and smooth, creamy and savory, salty and sweet made for a fantastic lunch.  If you stop at Up In Smoke, this is the dish to try.

The sides at Up In Smoke were dutiful – they accompanied the meal but were not inspirational.  Fried okra was crispy, but lacked seasoning.  The green beans were ok, but nothing dazzling.  The barbecue sauce was nondescript.

Overall Up In Smoke was a decent place to stop for a meal along the highway.  Not fantastic, but not bad either.  If you are looking for quick, accessible barbecue then give Up In Smoke a try.  If you are after legendary Texas “cue” there might be other places worth considering in your Texas journey.  Robert and Chris give Up In Smoke 3 sausage links out of 5.

*For Non-Texans, Frito pie is Fritos corn chips covered in Chili and topped with cheese.

Having lived in Texas for more than 19 years, I am a fan of dry rub beef barbecue.  Tender smoked brisket is what I’ve cooked and eaten for years.  For those that have tried Texas beef barbecue, it is a slice of heaven on a plate.  Unlike Texas barbecue, Memphis barbecue is typically pulled pork or ribs.  The pork is slow cooked with a dry rub in a wood fired smoker until it is fall off the bone tender.  Memphis pulled pork is typically served with a tomato and vinegar sauce that combines the richness of the tomato with the tart taste of vinegar.

Payne’s defines this Memphis style barbecue.  Located in an old gas station away from Beale Street and other Memphis tourist areas, the restaurant is a classic “hole in the wall”.  Inside you will find an austere environment that might leave you wondering if you have found the right place.  Inhaling the rich smoky atmosphere, however, will confirm you have arrived at Memphis barbecue heaven.  Payne’s offers ribs, hot links, and pork shoulder (sliced or pulled) on its menu with a variety of sides such a baked beans, potato salad, and fries.  The quintessential expression of Memphis barbecue is found in the pulled pork sandwich.  The sandwich is served on a toasted bun, piled high with heavenly pulled pork and either mild or spicy barbecue sauce.  Alone this combination of bread, meat and sauce would be a compelling reason to search out and enjoy Payne’s, but they take it one step further by adding tart and crispy slaw to the top of the sandwich.  The mix of flavors and textures is intoxicating.  This sandwich will blow your mind.

Without a doubt, Payne’s is the place to stop for Memphis barbecue.  Regardless of your favorite barbecue style – Texas beef, Kansas City wet, Carolina vinegar, Jamaican jerk, or Indonesian satay – don’t stroll, don’t walk, run to Payne’s when you next travel to Memphis.