There are dozens of different combinations that make up barbecue around the world, but ask anyone if they like “good barbecue” and you’re likely to see a big smile on their face and receive a strongly affirmative answer. Really good barbecue, regardless of the method used or the meat prepared, is something that inspires gastronomic awe. It’s the subject of countless cooking contests, cooking shows on television, instruction manuals, cook books along with a retail industry of grill makers, charcoal manufacturers, and hundreds of secret sauces and rubs. Barbecue is a topic that has a place in nearly every culture around the world. It represents an amazing diversity of barbecue preparations and yet is represented by one solitary word in the English language. In our travels Chris and I have eaten a lot of barbecue, but here today, we pay homage to one of the best – a very special purveyor of barbecue: Payne’s BBQ in Memphis, Tennessee.
Having lived in Texas for more than 19 years, I am a fan of dry rub beef barbecue. Tender smoked brisket is what I’ve cooked and eaten for years. For those that have tried Texas beef barbecue, it is a slice of heaven on a plate. Unlike Texas barbecue, Memphis barbecue is typically pulled pork or ribs. The pork is slow cooked with a dry rub in a wood fired smoker until it is fall off the bone tender. Memphis pulled pork is typically served with a tomato and vinegar sauce that combines the richness of the tomato with the tart taste of vinegar.
Payne’s defines this Memphis style barbecue. Located in an old gas station away from Beale Street and other Memphis tourist areas, the restaurant is a classic “hole in the wall”. Inside you will find an austere environment that might leave you wondering if you have found the right place. Inhaling the rich smoky atmosphere, however, will confirm you have arrived at Memphis barbecue heaven. Payne’s offers ribs, hot links, and pork shoulder (sliced or pulled) on its menu with a variety of sides such a baked beans, potato salad, and fries. The quintessential expression of Memphis barbecue is found in the pulled pork sandwich. The sandwich is served on a toasted bun, piled high with heavenly pulled pork and either mild or spicy barbecue sauce. Alone this combination of bread, meat and sauce would be a compelling reason to search out and enjoy Payne’s, but they take it one step further by adding tart and crispy slaw to the top of the sandwich. The mix of flavors and textures is intoxicating. This sandwich will blow your mind.
Without a doubt, Payne’s is the place to stop for Memphis barbecue. Regardless of your favorite barbecue style – Texas beef, Kansas City wet, Carolina vinegar, Jamaican jerk, or Indonesian satay – don’t stroll, don’t walk, run to Payne’s when you next travel to Memphis.
